An idiosyncratic record of a slow journey around Canada. There should be beautiful scenery, cute animals, interesting cities, and a dash of science and history- none of which is likely to be taken terribly seriously. Expect updates once every 2 weeks, or thereabouts, with occasional shorter updates in between.
Tuesday, March 19, 2019
Monday, March 18, 2019
A brief introduction to Vancouver
It took me a while to pin down what felt so odd about
Vancouver for the first day or so, but I think I’ve worked it out- it was
everything being built on a grid. Somehow that made it feel not really like a
proper city for a while. An entirely unfair impression, but interesting that my
gut assessment of what constituted a ‘proper’ city was so closely related to
age and winding-ness of streets. The atmosphere seemingly saturated with
cannabis smoke and a faint air of greasiness didn’t really help, but once again
in fairness to Vancouver, I think the greasiness was as much to do with the
state that I was in after the long journey.
I’ll go into more detail on some of the more interesting
parts of Vancouver later, and just do an overview of the city for now.
One of the first things I did in Vancouver was to get comprehensively lost. Quite a feat in such an orderly city- I blame the jetlag and every street looking roughly the same for the first 48 hours or so. Which was also probably thanks to the jetlag. Either that or it took a while to adjust to the ambient fog of cannabis smoke. In any case, it lead directly to this rather lovely view:
Being the curious sort of chap that I am, I wandered down to the water's edge and was rewarded with an even more impressive panorama:
If I've worked it out right, this was the view from Coal Harbour Park. And just around the corner from that, I found a lovely little spot called Portal Park.
I've always had a fondness for these urban follies, or whatever else you may choose to call them, so this find was a particular treat for me. An interesting little spot- constructed above the north entrance to the Canadian Pacific Railway tunnel to mark a handover agreement between the CPR, B.C Transit and the city of Vancouver regarding the ownership of the tunnel. It also has a surprising cinematic pedigree, having been used in Arrow, The Flash, and iZombie, among others.
Stay tuned for more on the rest (well, more) of Vancouver!
And off we go!
Alright, let’s get this started! I’ve been in Canada for
just over a week, but have only just arrived where I will be spending the first
6 months or so- the delightful little mountain town of Jasper, right in the
heart of the Rockies. I’ll probably just be finding my feet here for a week or
two, so I’ll work through the journey and the time I spent in Vancouver.
Everything should sync up eventually.
So, to keep it simple for starters, the flight! Heathrow to
Vancouver via Reykjavik.
Sadly, no time during changeover to see much of Iceland, but
the views I had on the flights over were absolutely beautiful. The long,
shallow black beaches of volcanic basalt sand were hypnotically tranquil, as were the slow waves that rolled in on them.
Image courtesy of www.gcmap.com |
Flying on from Iceland, it was fascinating to watch the sea
shift from dark slate grey, flecked with floating ice, as it slowly froze over.
Then, as we reached the coast of Greenland, and the sea ice gave way to the
peaks of islands, rising and merging to form a coastline, then mountains, which
in turn were subsumed under snow. How well the impressions I had of the land
from the air matched up with the reality of the geography I’m not sure, but it
looked absolutely stunning.
The process then reversed on the other coast, peaks emerging
from what looked like a great plain of snow, then sinking down beneath sea ice
that stretched through to the other coast, broken in places by narrow bands of
dark sea, or swirled into strange peaks and spirals.
The flight over Canada mostly crossed a region called
Nunavut (pronounced as none-of-it, apparently, since that’s what’s there
(actually a transcription of the native name for the area,)), and having flown
over a fair portion of it, I can vouch for the fact that what we passed over at
least was overwhelmingly nothing but rock and snow. There weren’t even any
trees for the first hour or so. Eventually, we dropped below the treeline and in
to the Rockies, and indeed negligible sign of human habitation until we arrived
in Vancouver.
I haven’t quite pinned down why exactly, but I also haven’t
had all that much time to think about it, but I found the landscape of Nunavut
to be deeply compelling. I haven’t wanted to go exploring somewhere more since
the jungles of Cambodia. Something to do with the fantastically bleak starkness
and bleakness of it all, I think. I doubt that I will make it out there this
trip, but we shall see. I will certainly take the opportunity should it arise.
Vancouver from the air |
Vancouver airport welcoming comittee |
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